AC Repair in South Florida

The most common causes are a failed capacitor, a failing outdoor fan motor, or low refrigerant from a leak. Many people assume it's the compressor, but that's often not the case. Our technician tests the electrical parts and refrigerant pressures to find the real cause, then gives you a flat-rate price in a digital estimate before any work starts. Capacitors and universal motors are on our vans, so those repairs are usually done on the same visit.

Usually the drain line is clogged, so the water from the coil has nowhere to go. A full drain pan, or ice on the coil that melts, can also cause a leak. If your system has a float switch, it may have shut the AC off to stop the overflow. We clear and flush the drain line, empty the pan and check the float switch, usually on the same visit.

Ice on the coil or copper lines usually comes from a dirty, clogged filter, low refrigerant from a leak, or a failing blower motor. Until the technician arrives, set the thermostat to fan on with cooling off: the moving air melts the ice faster. If you're not sure how, turn the system off. A frozen system can't be diagnosed or charged with refrigerant until it thaws, so this saves time on the visit. We find the cause, fix it, and test the system before we leave.

Clicking or humming usually points to an electrical part such as a capacitor, contactor, relay or transformer. Grinding or banging usually means an unbalanced motor or blower wheel. Whistling is often a filter that isn't seated right or a panel that isn't closed. Our technician finds the part making the noise and gives you the price before fixing it.

It's common in South Florida homes, especially with older AC units. The moment the compressor starts, it draws the most power it uses all cycle, several times its normal running amps, for a split second. Lights on the same electrical panel can dim while that happens. A technician can install a hard start kit. It helps the compressor start faster and with less strain, so in most homes the dimming gets shorter and less noticeable. If the lights stay dim for more than a moment, the flicker is getting worse, or a breaker trips, call us. That can point to a weak capacitor or a loose electrical connection.

For homes, yes. The visit is $79, and it's waived when you approve any repair or service. Businesses pay a $99 diagnostic fee plus the repair. After 7 pm, a $100 emergency fee applies to homes and businesses. Every repair is priced flat-rate in a digital estimate, so you know the full price before any work starts.

Every repair comes with a 1-year parts and labor warranty. If a part we installed fails within that year, we come back and fix it.

Same-day service, when available. Calls are handled in the order they are received, and most are seen the same day. Our vans carry capacitors, universal motors and hard-start kits, so many repairs are finished on the first visit. Parts such as compressors, coils, fan blades and control boards are ordered from the supply house and are replaced the next day when the part is in stock.

After 7 pm, an AC that isn't cooling, or heat that isn't heating, is an emergency call, every day of the year, and we send the next available technician. Our emergency team takes only the calls it can handle well, so if tonight is booked we tell you and reserve an early-morning visit. If you smell burning, switch the AC off at the breaker; for smoke or sparks, call 911. After 7 pm, a $100 emergency fee applies.

Yes. If tonight is already booked, we tell you and reserve your place in line for the morning. Morning appointments fill up fast, so calling the night before helps. That morning visit is a regular visit, with no $100 emergency fee. Real people answer 24/7, and calls are handled in the order they are received.

Yes, for electrical repairs. On R-22 systems we replace capacitors, contactors, transformers, control boards and motors. We don't do refrigerant repairs on R-22 systems, such as fixing leaks or adding refrigerant, because R-22 has been phased out and is in short supply. If your R-22 system needs refrigerant work, a new system is the way forward, and the in-home estimate is free.

We repair central air conditioning in homes and businesses: split systems (an outdoor condenser and an indoor air handler), package units, pancake air handlers in apartment ceilings and water-source heat pumps in condos and high-rises, and commercial systems up to 25 tons. On older R-22 systems we do electrical repairs but no refrigerant repairs. We don't work on window, wall or mini-split units, chillers, cooling towers or water pumps, systems over 25 tons, or car and RV air conditioning.

We start with an electronic leak detector. If that can't pinpoint the leak, we use a dye test, or on split systems an isolation test: the coils and copper lines are separated and filled with nitrogen overnight, and a drop in pressure shows which part is leaking. Small leaks in copper lines can often be brazed the same visit. A leaking coil has to be replaced.

Turn the AC's breaker off and back on once. If the house already reached the set temperature and the outdoor unit keeps running, the contactor, the switch that turns the outdoor unit on and off, may be stuck, and cutting the power can release it. If the house hasn't cooled, the indoor fan motor may be failing, and a power reset can bring it back for some temporary cooling. Either way, call us to replace the part.

Condo and high-rise units called water-source heat pumps run on water from a cooling tower on the roof. Debris loosened during tower maintenance can travel down the water line and clog your unit's heat exchanger or strainer (not every system has a strainer). Less water reaches the coil, the pressure rises, and the unit shuts off on its high-pressure safety switch, often in under 30 seconds. Resetting the breaker won't fix it. Call us to schedule a service call and cleaning. Buildings usually ask residents to turn the AC off and close its water valves during tower maintenance.

That's common. Dust settles on the heating element during the months it isn't used, and it burns off as the element heats up the first time. If it smells electrical, gets stronger or doesn't go away, turn the heat off and call us.